Have Dry, Sensitive Skin? Cica Cream Will Be Your New Favorite Skin Care Product

Cica cream has rapidly gained recognition as a favored skincare choice for those with dry, reactive, or eczema-prone skin.

It’s a staple in K-beauty formulations and commonly sold in European pharmacies as a remedy for scars.

“This ingredient has a long history in wound care,” says Dr. Marisa Garshick, FAAD, a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York Presbyterian-Cornell and dermatologist at MDCS: Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery in New York City.

She notes that cica cream is frequently advised as a soothing option after cosmetic procedures.

Naturopathic practitioners have also recommended it for numerous medical and dermatologic conditions for many years.

“Centella asiatica has been employed to address psoriasis, eczema, lupus, Hansen’s disease (leprosy), syphilis, wounds, colds, and influenza,” says Dr. Tsippora Shainhouse, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at SkinSafe Dermatology and Skin Care in Beverly Hills, California.

Over the last several years, cica cream has grown in popularity in the United States. “It’s being incorporated into skincare regimens more often,” Garshick says.

Read on to find out how cica cream functions, what the science says about its benefits, and where you can purchase it.

What is it?

Cica cream, also referred to as gotu kola or tiger grass, is a moisturizer rich in antioxidants designed for delicate skin.

The term “cica” is short for Centella asiatica, a plant native to regions of Asia and Africa. It’s particularly noted for calming eczema and psoriasis flare-ups and for aiding in the healing of minor burns and abrasions.

Centuries ago, the Centella asiatica plant was used as a multipurpose remedy in traditional medicine. For hundreds of years, it has featured in Asian medical practices to accelerate wound repair and reduce skin inflammation.

The herb entered Western medical use in the nineteenth century and now appears in sensitive-skin products around the globe.

Key active constituents in Centella asiatica include madecassoside acid, asiatic acid, and asiaticoside — which is why cica cream is sometimes marketed as “madecassoside cream” or “asiaticoside cream.”

For instance, in France you can purchase a 1% madecassoside cream — made from Centella asiatica extract — as a scar treatment at pharmacies.

How does it work?

Centella asiatica is abundant in amino acids, beta carotene, fatty acids, and various phytochemicals, Shainhouse explains.

It exhibits antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory actions, which may help soothe and repair skin. It’s also thought to encourage collagen production, the structural protein that helps maintain skin elasticity.

“It helps to fortify the skin barrier and can have anti-aging effects,” Garshick adds.

Cica cream has a long history in traditional Asian medicine, and some scientific studies indicate it may be beneficial for several skin concerns, including:

• Eczema and psoriasis. Research in mice suggested cica formulations might assist in treating eczema. “Because of its anti-inflammatory and hydrating nature, it can be a useful adjunct for people with psoriasis or eczema,” Garshick says.
• Dryness and irritation. Skincare brands posit that the anti-inflammatory qualities of Centella asiatica could enhance moisturizers by supporting the skin’s barrier. A small study of 20 women by a skincare company reported that their product, containing hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and Centella asiatica extract, increased skin hydration.
• Wrinkles. A trial of 20 women with chronic sun damage found that two-thirds of participants who used an antioxidant cream with vitamin C and madecassoside experienced better hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle appearance after six months. Another study of asiaticoside, an extract of Centella asiatica, reported that two-thirds noticed improvement in eye-area wrinkles after twice-daily application for 12 weeks.
• Acne. One study concluded that madecassoside enhanced hydration and reduced acne-related inflammation in cultured human skin cells.
• Scars.Centella asiatica contains triterpene compounds that some studies suggest may boost collagen production, Shainhouse explains. Animal research has shown that Centella asiatica can improve wound-healing for minor burns and cuts. A small 2018 study in humans found it lessened pigmentation on skin-graft scars.

Although findings on cica cream are encouraging, they are not definitive.

Many studies on wound repair, collagen synthesis, and inflammation have been performed in animals, notes Dr. Peterson Pierre, a dermatologist with the Pierre Skin Care Institute in Westlake Village, California.

He adds that there aren’t robust, peer-reviewed trials that conclusively prove cica cream’s effectiveness for eczema, psoriasis, or acne.

How to use it

Cleanse your face and apply — it’s that simple.

Some individuals may experience an allergic reaction to Centella asiatica. Before applying cica cream broadly, test it on a small area of skin.

“I suggest starting a few nights a week and gradually increasing to nightly use and, if tolerated, twice daily,” Pierre advises.

If you’re using a cica cream, Garshick recommends applying it after your other skincare products. “It can function as a richer barrier-style moisturizer,” she says.

If it’s a serum, use it beneath your moisturizer, she suggests. In the morning, finish with sunscreen.

Cica cream can be particularly useful after a chemical peel or other facial treatments that leave skin feeling sensitive. Post-procedure, apply it twice daily after cleansing for several consecutive days, Garshick recommends.

Products to try

Interested in trying cica cream? Consider these well-reviewed options:

• Dr. Jart’s Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment with SPF 30
• La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5
• Uriage Bariéderm Repairing Cica-Cream
• Kiehl’s Centella Sensitive Cica-Cream
• Innisfree Bija Cica Balm
• Iope Derma Repair Cica Cream
• Lancôme Advanced Génifique Sensitive Dual Concentrate
• L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Cicacream

The bottom line

If your skin is sensitive, cica cream is a solid choice to help maintain moisture. Garshick often suggests cica cream to her patients, particularly after procedures. “It’s suitable for all skin types, including those prone to acne or rosacea,” she says.

Although high-quality scientific evidence is limited, “cica cream is generally safe and appears to have potentially meaningful benefits, especially for wound healing, so it’s likely worth trying,” Pierre concludes.