Glycolic, lactic, citric, and malic acids — all of these are members of the alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) family.
These acids serve as chemical exfoliants, breaking down the bonds that keep dead skin cells attached to the surface of your skin, explains NYC board-certified dermatologist Dr. Hadley King.
That action helps your skin slough off those cells, revealing smoother, healthier skin beneath.
AHAs also act as humectants, notes Dr. Orit Markowitz, an NYC board-certified dermatologist and founder of OptiSkin. In plain terms, they pull moisture into the skin to help it stay hydrated.
Retinol, by contrast, is part of the vitamin A derivative family known as retinoids. Retinoids increase skin cell turnover and prevent keratin and skin cells from clumping together and blocking pores, King explains.
And there’s more: retinoids can also:
- stimulate collagen production for healthier-looking skin
- fade post-acne discoloration
- shorten acne healing time
But while retinol penetrates deeper layers of the skin, AHAs primarily act on the surface. Combining these two ingredients might therefore sound like an appealing way to build a potent skincare routine.
But is that really the case? Can mixing these actives produce remarkable results — or will it simply irritate your skin? Read on to learn more.
What’s the short answer?
Once you understand what AHAs and retinol do, it’s not hard to see why someone would want to use both in their routine.
The pressing question is: can you?
King says the answer generally hinges on your individual skin type, the specific formulations of the products you plan to use, and any other products you routinely apply.
When combining skincare ingredients, it’s always wise to focus on what’s best for your skin’s overall health.
If your skin isn’t especially reactive and the formulations aren’t overly harsh, King adds, your skin might be able to tolerate both ingredients.
Research from 2015 also indicates that pairing retinol with an AHA exfoliant can be effective for treating acne-related hyperpigmentation.
However, experts typically recommend avoiding simultaneous application of the two ingredients because that increases the risk of dryness and irritation. Instead, you might alternate them on different days to help your skin develop tolerance.
What about BHAs?
When discussing AHAs, it’s worth bringing up beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
These function similarly, King says, since they also chemically exfoliate the skin.
But while AHAs are water-soluble and mainly act on the skin’s surface, oil-soluble BHAs can penetrate deeper into the pores.
You’re probably familiar with one of the most common BHAs, salicylic acid, especially if you struggle with oilier skin. This BHA helps clear clogged pores and reduce breakouts.
King points out it also has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, so people with sensitive skin often tolerate it well.
What about using an AHA, BHA, and retinol together in the same regimen?
Again, it depends on your skin and the specific products you’re using or planning to add.
A 2009 review suggested combining an AHA and BHA could result in more plump-looking skin. Bear in mind, though, that both are exfoliants, so layering them directly on top of each other is generally not recommended.
Instead, consider applying them at different times of day, on alternating days, or even on separate areas of the face as needed.
You can also purchase formulations that contain both AHAs and BHAs. Markowitz explains that combined products are often formulated with reduced strengths to produce a complementary, gentler effect.
Introducing retinol into this mix can complicate things. While it’s possible to use all three, it’s wise to allow sufficient time between applications — at least a day, to be cautious — and to avoid high concentrations.
What are the risks of using them together?
If your skin isn’t a fan of this combination, you’ll likely notice adverse effects quickly.
Side effects you might notice
- redness
- flaking and peeling
- itching
- heightened sun sensitivity
If you see any of these symptoms or other signs of irritation, it’s usually best to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
Keep in mind that you should avoid retinol while pregnant or breastfeeding.
Touching base with a dermatologist before combining these active ingredients is never a bad idea. Dermatologists can provide tailored advice and product suggestions based on your skin type and concerns, and recommend strategies to minimize irritation or damage.
What can you use instead?
If you’re hesitant to pair AHAs and retinol, there are alternatives.
Bakuchiol, derived from the seeds of the babchi plant, is one such option. This plant-based compound delivers comparable benefits to retinol.
Research from 2019 found bakuchiol to be similarly effective but with a lower likelihood of causing adverse effects.
Not sure what to use instead of an AHA? King suggests polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), such as gluconolactone. PHAs have larger molecules, she explains, so they don’t penetrate as deeply and are less likely to provoke irritation or dryness.
How can you use both products safely?
When introducing any new product into your routine, it’s best to start slowly.
Never used AHAs or retinol before? Begin with one, applying it once or twice weekly. If your skin tolerates it, add the other on alternating days.
Avoid using both ingredients at the same time of day, as that can trigger irritation. If your skin can handle both in one day, try using an AHA in the morning and retinol at night, or vice versa.
If you’d like to try a combined approach in one product line, King recommends the skinbetter science AlphaRet collection.
These products blend a retinoid with glycolic and lactic acids — notable because of the typical risk of irritation.
King says the brand “has done a great job formulating an effective product that is well-tolerated.”
Tips to keep in mind
You know your skin best.
If your skin is sensitive, you’re more prone to adverse reactions. That said, anyone can experience irritation when using potent skincare actives — especially when multiple ingredients are combined.
To lower the risk, choose products with milder concentrations and alternate them a few times each week.
Start with a single product and, if your skin responds well, build from there.
And remember: although sunscreen is always important, sun protection becomes even more crucial when using retinoids.
Also consider how other ingredients in your routine interact — for example, pairing exfoliants with niacinamide and retinol or buffering potent actives with hydrating serums can help.
The bottom line
Both AHAs and retinol provide significant skin benefits.
If you want advantages from both, you can incorporate them into your skincare regimen — but do so slowly and thoughtfully, and avoid applying them at the same moment of the day.
Still unsure what’s best for your skin? A dermatologist can help you decide.
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