Microneedling can diminish the look of scars and fine lines while promoting overall skin health. That said, it’s generally safer and more effective when performed by a trained professional.
Microneedling offers several advantages, including:
- diminished wrinkles and stretch marks
- reduced acne scarring and uneven pigmentation
- thicker skin
- facial renewal
- improved absorption of topical products
If you’re exploring at-home options for these issues, microneedling could be a solution. Still, it’s preferable to have the procedure done in a clinic by a skincare expert.
Below is a concise overview of the process and practical guidance.
What is microneedling?
Microneedling, also called dermarolling or collagen induction therapy, is a cosmetic technique where thousands of tiny needles penetrate the skin’s surface using a rolling or stamping tool.
The small punctures stimulate the skin to produce collagen and elastin, which drive the repair and rejuvenation process.
Which dermaroller needle length is best?
The ideal needle length depends on your treatment goal. In general, needle sizes ranging from 0.25 mm to 1.0 mm are commonly used. For convenience, here’s a breakdown of recommended lengths for specific concerns.
Concerns Needle length (millimeters)
shallow acne scars 1.0 mm
deep acne scars 1.5 mm
enlarged pores 0.25–0.5 mm
postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (blemishes) 0.25–0.5 mm
skin discoloration 0.25–1.0 mm (begin with the shortest)
sun-damaged or sagging skin 0.5–1.5 mm (a mix of lengths works well)
stretch marks 1.5–2.0 mm (avoid 2.0 mm for home treatments)
surgical scars 1.5 mm
uneven skin tone or texture 0.5 mm
wrinkles 0.5–1.5 mm
Note: Microneedling is not effective for postinflammatory erythema (PIE), which appears as red or pink spots.
How to use a dermaroller
Follow these instructions carefully to minimize risks and lower the chance of infection.
Step 1: Disinfect your roller
Soak your dermaroller in 70% isopropyl alcohol for roughly 5 to 10 minutes to disinfect it.
Step 2: Cleanse your face
Wash your face thoroughly with a mild, pH-balanced cleanser. If your dermaroller uses needles longer than 0.5 mm, wipe your face with 70% isopropyl alcohol before rolling.
Check your skin for any open wounds or active acne. Avoid dermarolling until the skin is fully healed to prevent infection.
Step 3: Use numbing cream if necessary
Depending on how much discomfort you tolerate, you may opt for a topical anesthetic. For needles over 1.0 mm, numbing cream is generally recommended because such lengths can cause pinpoint bleeding.
If you apply a numbing product, adhere to the manufacturer’s directions and make sure to remove it completely before starting the treatment.
Step 4: Start dermarolling
Technique matters. Mentally divide your face into zones to make the procedure more manageable. The shaded area around the eye sockets should be avoided.
- One 2015 literature review suggests rolling in one direction about four times, based on your skin’s tolerance, and lifting the roller after each pass. So, roll in a single direction, lift, and repeat.
Raising the roller after each pass helps prevent “tram track” scarring.
- After several passes in the same spot, shift the roller slightly and continue until the entire zone is treated.
- Once you’ve rolled in one direction, go back over the area from the perpendicular angle. For example, if you rolled vertically across your forehead, return and repeat the process horizontally.
Despite common practice, diagonal rolling isn’t strictly necessary and may create an irregular distribution or add undue stress to central areas. If you do use diagonal passes, proceed cautiously.
Step 5: Rinse your face with water
When you finish microneedling, gently rinse your face with plain water.
Step 6: Clean the dermaroller
Wash the roller with an unscented detergent. Prepare soapy water in a plastic container and agitate the roller inside, taking care not to bang it against the container edges.
Step 7: Disinfect the roller again
Soak the dermaroller in a fresh bowl of 70% isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes to disinfect it post-use. Use a different container of alcohol than the one used before the session. Store the roller back in its case afterward.
Step 8: Resume a gentle skincare routine
After dermarolling, stick to a basic skincare regime. Avoid chemical exfoliants and active agents like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, tretinoin, and similar ingredients.
Opt for a mild cleanser and a soothing moisturizer.
Does dermarolling actually work?
How often should you dermaroll?
The frequency of dermarolling is dictated by the needle size. Below are typical maximum frequencies for home use.
Needle length (millimeters) Frequency
0.25 mm every other day
0.5 mm 1–3 times per week (start on the lower end)
1.0 mm every 10–14 days
1.5 mm once every 3–4 weeks
2.0 mm every 6 weeks (this length is not recommended for home use)
Use caution and ensure your skin is fully healed before your next treatment.
Collagen rebuilding is gradual. Keep in mind that skin remodeling takes time.
What to expect after microneedling
After treatment, you may experience:
- minor bleeding
- short-lived redness (often only a few hours)
- a sensation similar to sunburn
- slight initial swelling
- a feeling of increased circulation in the face
Less commonly, potential complications include:
- hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation
- “tram track” scarring
- cold sore outbreaks
- swollen lymph nodes
- infection
Mild erythema (redness) can last about 2 to 3 days, and the skin may flake. If peeling occurs, resist picking at it — it will shed naturally.
When will you notice results?
Research indicates that noticeable improvements in acne scarring or wrinkles can occur within a few sessions.
Regular treatments yield better outcomes. Some studies suggest that benefits seen after three sessions can persist for months following the final treatment.
Key takeaways
If you choose to dermaroll at home, never do so on active acne. If you’re unsure or have concerns, consult a qualified skincare professional before proceeding.
This article was adapted from Simple Skincare Science and edited for clarity and brevity.
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