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Henna, botanically named Lawsonia inermis, is a primary ingredient in many commercial body and hair dyes. It’s one of the oldest plants employed for coloring purposes.

For centuries, henna leaves have been used across North Africa and Asia not only for decoration but also for therapeutic and psychological applications.

Woman smiling with voluminous curly hair, representing henna-treated natural hair
(img by Its Elixir)
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Benefits for hair

In traditional medicine, henna has been described as an astringent, purgative, and abortifacient. It’s also widely applied to hair.

“Henna possesses antifungal properties, making it useful for those dealing with dandruff, hair fall, and other microbial issues,” says Dr. Khushboo Garodia, a certified trichologist.

Henna may help delay premature graying because it is high in tannins — plant compounds similar to those in tea that add rich pigments.

Henna also includes vitamin E, which contributes to hair softness. The plant’s leaves are naturally abundant in proteins and antioxidants that support hair health.

Historically, henna has long been used as a natural hair dye.

Henna recipe for hair

Henna is most commonly used as a powder mixed with liquid and applied to dry hair.

For optimal results leave the henna on overnight. Alternatively, apply it in the morning and rinse after 4–5 hours.

Henna can stain, so protect your shoulders and workspace with an old towel or sheet when applying. Stains on skin are usually temporary and fade after several washes.

To achieve a rich brown hue, brew coffee or strong black tea and add it to your henna mixture. For deeper red shades, use brewed red tea, hibiscus petal powder, or beetroot juice.

Some suggest avoiding metal when mixing henna to prevent unwanted reactions. Henna can also stain plastic. Garodia recommends using a ceramic bowl.

What you’ll need

  • old towels or sheets to protect your shoulders and work area
  • rubber gloves
  • hair dye brush
  • shower cap
  • non-metal, non-plastic bowl and stirring utensil
  • lemon juice or apple cider vinegar to help release the dye
  • filtered or distilled water (or coffee or tea as mentioned above)
  • hair clips to section hair (optional)
  • hair dryer for heat treatment (optional)

How to mix

  1. Add water gradually to 1 cup of henna until you reach a thick paste similar to pancake batter.
  2. Stir in a moisturizing ingredient of your choice (see suggestions below).
  3. Add a splash of lemon juice or apple cider vinegar and blend.
  4. Cover and let it sit overnight. If it’s warm, store it in the fridge.

How to apply to hair

  1. Protect your shoulders with an old towel or sheet and put on gloves.
  2. Beginning at the crown, take small sections and apply henna with the brush, ensuring coverage of the scalp as well.
  3. As you work, gather hair on top and secure with clips if needed.
  4. Once complete, cover your head with a shower cap or plastic bag.
  5. Leave the paste on for 4–5 hours or overnight depending on the depth of color desired.
  6. If possible, sit in sunlight or under a dryer during application; heat helps the color penetrate more deeply.

How to wash the dye from your hair

  1. Rinse the henna out slowly with cool water.
  2. Avoid shampooing immediately. Let the color set for a day and wash with shampoo after about 24 hours.
  3. Pat dry with a towel and allow hair to air-dry.

How to avoid drying out your hair

Henna can be combined with hydrating ingredients to create a conditioning mask. Garodia recommends doing this to prevent hair from drying out.

Oiling your hair after rinsing can help restore moisture lost during the coloring process and contribute to a richer appearance.

Garodia suggests the following additions to combine with 1 cup of henna powder to make a nourishing mask:

  • 2 eggs
  • 1/2 cup yogurt
  • 1/2 cup shikakai (Acacia concinna) powder
  • 1 cup fenugreek seeds (soak overnight and blend into a thick paste)
  • 1 cup amla (Indian gooseberry) powder
  • 1 cup aloe vera gel
  • 1 cup flax seeds soaked and blended into a thick paste
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Henna vs. indigo powder

Henna is obtained from Lawsonia inermis leaves, while indigo powder comes from Indigofera tinctoria leaves. Both have been used as natural dyes for ages.

Henna often imparts an auburn or reddish tone, whereas indigo yields deep brown to black shades. Indigo is commonly applied after rinsing out henna to reach a darker color.

Indigo can be combined with henna and is effective on gray hair; it tends to act as a more permanent dye, while henna is semi-permanent.

Henna may dry hair unless mixed with moisturizing agents, whereas indigo is generally more nourishing.

Disadvantages of henna

Henna is commonly sold as a powder that can be soaked and applied. However, Garodia cautions that not all commercial henna products are reliable.

Some henna products may trigger allergic reactions on the scalp.

Studies have found that some henna powders contain contaminants because of poor quality control. These impurities can lead to allergies and even permanent scarring.

Garodia outlines three types of henna products found on the market:

  • Natural henna. Made from pure henna leaves, it produces an auburn tint.
  • Neutral henna. Adds shine and body without coloring the hair.
  • Black henna. Often contains indigo or chemicals such as paraphenylenediamine and isn’t true henna. It can provoke allergic reactions if left on too long.

Garodia also notes that certain hair types should be cautious about using henna.

“People with dry, frizzy hair should avoid plain henna,” she says. “If they choose to use it, they should combine it with a natural moisturizer to preserve the hair’s lipid and moisture balance.”

Warning

Many packaged powdered hennas may contain contaminants. Check ingredient lists carefully and research a product before use.

Dyes with paraphenylenediamine can irritate or scar the scalp and should be avoided.

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Cultural uses of henna

Applying henna to skin and hair has long been a cultural practice in South and Central Asia. Its earliest recorded uses date back to Egyptian times, when it was used in mummification. In several Muslim regions, men traditionally color their beards with henna.

Henna’s most enduring ceremonial role is in wedding rituals, where women decorate hands and feet with elaborate designs.

During pre-wedding festivities, a day is often set aside for this body art, known as mehndi. Women in the bridal circle sing and dance while the bride’s hands are adorned with intricate henna motifs.

Takeaway

Henna is an ancient medicinal plant used as a natural dye for over 4,000 years. Its antifungal and antimicrobial traits may benefit scalp and hair health, helping with premature graying and dandruff reduction.

However, henna can dry out frizzy or already-dry hair without added moisturizers.

Pure henna is most advantageous; many packaged options may be contaminated due to inadequate quality control, risking allergic responses.

When using henna on hair or skin, source it from a reputable supplier.

Frequently Asked Questions

What are the main benefits of henna for hair?

How do I mix henna for the best color outcome?

How long should henna stay on hair for rich auburn tones?

Can henna dry out my hair and how can I prevent that?

Is it safe to use commercial henna products?

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Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. Please consult a healthcare professional for any health concerns.

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